Maintenance and Lawn Care

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Site Preparation

maintenance-prepSite Preparation

  • If replacing an existing lawn, spray existing grass with glyphosate herbicide (Roundup) 7-10 days before laying new turf.
  • Rotary hoe or spade to a depth of 100 mm approximately
  • To obtain a premium lawn 100mm of good Turf-Gro underlay is required underneath your turf
  • Rake soil smooth and level, keeping 30-50mm approximately below paths and driveways
  • Remove clods and rocks
  • Use a Pre-lawn starter containing water holding crystals eg. Sir Launcher
  • Ensure soil is sloped to maintain correct drainage away from buildings
  • Measuring Your Lawn

    Measuring Your Lawn
    Measuring Your Lawn - Earl's Turf
  • Preparing A New Lawn

    Preparing A New Lawn
    Preparing A New Lawn - Earl's Turf

Turf Laying

maintenance-layingTurf Laying

  • Very lightly water the ground just before laying the turf - (it has been scientifically proven that this helps the roots establish quicker)
  • Lay your turf immediately after delivery - then water. If you have a large area to lay, water as you go.
  • Begin laying along the longest straight line
  • On slopes, lay the turf across the slope
  • Butt edges snuggly together and stagger the ends in a brick-like fashion
  • Avoid indentations by not kneeling or repeatedly walking on turf while laying or soon after watering
  • Lightly top dress, especially along the joins in hot weather to help maintain the moisture on the newly laid turf
  • Roll turf to improve turf/soil contact and to provide a professional finish We have rollers available for hire
  • Avoid excessive traffic or use in the first 4 weeks, to help your lawn establish
  • Launch Your Lawn

    Launch Your Lawn
    Launch Your Lawn - Earl's Turf
  • Laying New Turf

    Laying New Turf
    Laying New Turf - Earl's Turf

Watering

maintenance-wateringWatering

  • Please check with your local council or water authority for any water restrictions
  • New turf should be given a good soaking immediately after laying. TIP Place some plastic containers around the new lawn and make sure you have at least 2 cm of water in each  after watering.
  •  Water daily for the first 2 weeks, then every 2-4 days for a further 2 weeks. Weekly for a further 2 weeks.
  • Never let your lawn dry out in the first 2 weeks after laying
  • Early morning is the best time for watering, avoiding evaporation
  • Do not water in the evening during humid weather as this can promote fungal problems in all grasses
  • Infrequent deep watering is preferable to frequent light watering (except for newly laid turf) as it promotes a deep root structure that can utilize the moisture reserves in the soil.
  • Watering Tips For Your Lawn

    Watering Tips For Your Lawn
    Watering Tips For Your Lawn - Earl's Turf

Fertilising

maintenance-fertilisingFertilising

  • New lawn turf should be given a pre-lawn starter preferably containing water holding crystals. (see also Site Preparation/Pricing section)
  • Feed the lawn with a slow release organic fertilizer during the growing season every 6-8 weeks
  • Early autumn fertilizing is important to keep your lawn healthy through the cooler winter season and help it retain it's best colour
  • A little bit often is better than a lot at once. Over fertilizing is expensive and can cause burning, fungus diseases or unnecessary mowing.
  • Spread fertiliser evenly, preferably using a fertiliser spreader. Follow up with a good, deep watering.
  • Top dressing is only necessary to correct any unevenness in the lawn. It is better to de-thatch the lawn in spring followed by fertilizing and watering to promote new leaf growth.
  • Ask Earl's Turf for the Sir Walter specially blended fertilisers
  • How To Fertilise Your Lawn

    How To Fertilise Your Lawn
    How To Fertilise Your Lawn
  • When To Fertilise Your Lawn

    When To Fertilise Your Lawn
    When To Fertilise Your Lawn

Mowing

maintenance-mowingMowing

  • Newly established lawns may be mown in 3 or 4 weeks, only if turf can not be lifted from the soil
  • Aim to cut no more than 1/3 of the length of the grass in each cut
  • Clippings may be left on lawn if following the 1/3 length rule (good nitrogen) otherwise remove
  • Do not cut grass too short, this can cause your lawn to dry out or burn-off
  • When it is wet try to avoid mowing your lawn as this can result in an uneven cut
  • Avoid mowing your lawn when it is very hot
  • Mow in different directions as this prevents the grass curving in the same way after a number of cuts
  • Remove all clippings after mowing
  • Keep your lawnmower blades sharp and well maintained
  • Mowing Tips

    Mowing Tips
    Mowing Tips

Good Looking Turf All Year Round

Green Turf All Year Round

New to the market is Lawn Solutions Australia’s ColourGuard. This is a natural turf grass colourant which will instantly restore and replace the diminishing natural colour of your lawn, especially over the autumn and winter months. Lasting for up to 3 months and easy to apply, you’ll have an amazing looking lawn no matter what the weather throws at it.

Are you planning to sell your property? Any real estate agent will tell you, kerb appeal is essential for getting your property sold for the highest price possible. ColourGuard means you can maximise your kerb appeal with a lush green front lawn, nature strip and backyard to show off your property at its best. Make sure you apply ColourGuard before your real estate agent takes photographs of your house for marketing your property!

Or maybe you’ve got an important party coming up and you want to have a lush green lawn for your guests. ColourGuard is so fast and easy to apply, your lawn will be party-ready in no time.

colourguard Some of the benefits of ColourGuard include
  • Instantly restores the natural green colour of grass – year round
  • Substantially reduces watering needs
  • Stays green during droughts and water restrictions
  • UV fade resistant
  • Won’t bleed, run, or stain once absorbed into the grass
  • Safe for the environment, pets and people
  • Works in extreme heat, cold and frost
  • Organic and natural – no harmful chemicals
  • Reduces the amount of fertiliser and water used on lawns

Spring Lawn Care

Spring Lawn Care

Spring… Everything starts growing and greening up as the cold weather is replaced with lovely warm days. It is a great time to restore your lawn to its peak condition after taking a beating from the harsh winter elements.

Fertilise

Spring is an important time to fertilise, as your lawn breaks the winter dormancy. Your fertiliser application will assist the lawn to jump into growth as the weather warms up. Fertilising will help to feed your lawn by giving it the essential nutrients it requires. Your lawn needs a blend of primary nutrients such as Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium to assist with necessary functions such as photosynthesis, root growth and overall vigour, combined with secondary nutrients and micronutrients such as Calcium and Iron for general plant health. Our new Slow Release Fertiliser will continue to feed your lawn for up to 10 weeks! Available in a 8kg and 2.5kg bag, they are a great addition to our fertiliser and lawn care range. So jump online and order yours today! Once the warmer weather really kicks in, you can feed your lawn with a good granular NPK fertiliser such as the Sir Walter Fertiliser. Containing macronutrients such as Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium, plus micronutrients like Iron, it will work to feed your lawn and enable it to carry out all of the necessary functions needed for optimum growth, strength and performance.

Watering

Spring is a good time to get your watering regime in order to drought-proof your lawn too. A deep soaking once a week will train your root system to grow deeper into the soil, so when those 40 degree scorchers come along, your lawn will be prepared to take them head-on!

Top Dressing and soil pH

In order to have the best lawn, you need to have the best soil. Depending where you live, and the soil you have will play a very big part here. There is no quick fix for all soil types, so you’ll need to apply a treatment which is specific to the profile. If you have a clay base, then despite having put in new soil when you laid your lawn, the underlying clay will, over time, work its way up through the soil profile and into the topsoil through a process called bioturbation. Therefore, you’ll need to periodically aerate and apply a clay breaker such as gypsum, otherwise your soil will compact and lack the oxygen the roots of your lawn require for respiration. If, on the other hand, your soil is quite sandy, then you’ll need to ensure that your soil has the ability to hold onto moisture. This can be corrected with regular applications of a soil wetting agent such as Lawn Lovers Lawn Soaker, which works to coat the sand grains and enables them to cling to moisture and nutrients. Checking your soil pH is important regardless of your soil type, so be sure to test your soil with a basic soil pH testing kit or soil probe, the optimum level is 6.5. If your pH is higher you can use Sulphate of Ammonia to lower it. If it’s lower, a 50:50 mix of lime and dolomite lime will help to raise it, whilst adding Calcium and Magnesium which are often leached from acidic soils. Your soil is full of nitrogen-fixing bacteria such as mycorrhiza and rhizobia, and these guys work hard to turn the nitrogen from the atmosphere and fertilisers into a usable form of nitrate for your lawn. During winter these guys go on strike, however once the soil temperature rises, they are ready to get to work. There’s nothing they love more than a boost of carbohydrate, so apply a soil conditioner which contains seaweed extract, and these guys will repay you ten-fold! Products such as Lawn Lovers Lawn Rescue or Seasol will do the trick.

Winter Lawn Care

Winter Lawn Care

Warm season grasses go into varying levels of dormancy during winter depending on where you live? In the colder parts of Australia the dormancy is more extreme than the warmer parts, where quite often all you will experience is a slowing down in vigour and growth. Be aware that your lawn is at its most vulnerable during winter so treat it with care.

Compaction

Compaction can be a bit of a problem over winter, particularly in high wear areas, or if you have a bit of wet weather. Try to avoid traffic on your lawn wherever possible, or regularly aerate any areas, which cannot be avoided to help loosen the soil. The same applies after heavy rains, particularly if water tends to pool or the soil gets a bit waterlogged. This will help the air get to the root zone, allowing your lawn to breathe and avoid suffocation in heavy compacted soil.

Mowing

Keep your lawn on the longer side in winter for better photosynthesis and food supply. This also helps insulate against frost. You should start raising the mower blades in autumn up a couple of notches and keep it this way until spring. Remove only the top of the leaf blade and no more. Winter is also a great time to do some maintenance work on your trusty mower. Spark plugs, oil and mower blades might all need the once-over to ensure your mower is ready for spring!

Winter Weeds

Winter weeds such as winter grass and a large range of broadleaf weeds like clover, dandelion and thistle can be very problematic as your lawn finds it harder to out compete them. The trick is to get right onto them as soon as they appear and don’t let them get out of hand or set seed. One year’s seeding is seven years weeding!! There are various weed control sprays available, just make sure they are suited to your lawn. Buffalo owners take note!!

Leaves & Shade

Remove any leaves quickly from your lawn as these restrict light and affect the plants ability to photosynthesise. In shady areas keep the lawn even longer and try to stay off it to avoid stress and damage from wear and tear.

Water

Water far less through winter, and only if your lawn really needs it. Over watering is a complete waste of water, time and money and can often do more harm than good.

Summer Lawn Care

Summer Lawn Care

This is the time of year when Australians really utilise their homes to enjoy the weather. Front and backyards becomes a favourite place for family and friends to gather. You want your lawn to feel good and look good, so here are some helpful tips for the hot summer days ahead.

Mowing

Try not to mow your lawn too short especially during the summer months. Length on the leaf blade will keep your lawn in much better shape. A shorter lawn does not mean it is easier to look after. This is far from the truth. Shorter lawns need alot more watering as the soil is more exposed. Keeping a length on the leaf shades the soil, keeps it cooler and much less exposed for evaporation. Raise your height to at least 40mm and you will notice the difference. It is recommended never mow more than 1/3 of the leaf tip off in any single mowing. If you need to mow more than 1/3, do it in a couple of goes over a few consecutive days taking a little off at a time. The end result will be far better. Does your lawn look ‘white’ after mowing? Check your mower blades, they may need to be sharpened. Blunt blades tend to ‘tear’ the leaf rather than cut, which makes mowing more difficult. So check your mower and sharpen those blades for an easier mow.

Fertilising

Summer fertilising helps your lawn maintain an even growth pattern. Most fertilisers have added minor nutrients, which work to give your lawn the correct balance of nutritional requirements to make you the envy of the street. Fertilising early in the summer season is recommended to help your lawn through the hotter months.  We recommend using a good granular slow release fertiliser such as the Sir Walter Fertiliser, which has high levels of nitrogen for good growth & colour, phosphorous for strong root growth and potassium for metabolism and respiration, plus all the trace elements you lawn needs to stay strong and healthy. Apply the fertiliser at the recommended rate, but in one section of the lawn in a space of 1m x 1m, apply twice the amount. In a few weeks time, if this area has better colour and looks a lot better than the rest of your lawn, fertilise again at the recommended rate. Sometimes your lawn may just need an extra boost, especially if there have been periods of high rainfall which can leech all of the nutrients out of your soil. There are many types of lawn fertiliser available in the market – organic, chemically blended, slow release, liquids just to name a few – but we find the LSA Professional Fertiliser great. It is granular so spreads easily and evenly, has low odour, requires minimal water, doesn’t make the lawn grow crazy overnight and gives an even growth for an extended period of time. So applied at 25-40 grams per square metre in Spring, Summer and Autumn the LSA Professional Fertiliser will keep your lawn in tiptop shape all year round.

Watering

The best time to water your lawn is early morning, before the wind comes up and the heat of the day. If your area is very humid, try and avoid late afternoon or early evening watering as this can increase the chance of fungal disease. For your watering to be the most efficient it can be, you should apply a wetting agent to increase your soil’s water absorbency, especially on sandy soils, and to ensure that your soil isn’t ‘hydrophobic’ and repelling water. Applying a product such as Lawn Lovers Lawn Soaker, you can easily treat your soil just by clipping the bottle onto the hose & spraying it over your entire lawn. As your lawn becomes established, the idea is to water less frequently, but give the lawn a good soaking. This encourages a deeper root system and therefore a more self-sufficient and drought-tolerant lawn.

Weed Control

During summer weeds have more difficulty competing with a healthy growing lawn. If your lawn is a weak and struggling, weeds will manage to get in, however some Sir Walter Weed Control will mean their days are numbered. Once you have killed or removed the weeds, fertilise your lawn and don't mow too low.

Top Dressing

This should only be done during the growing season (this is when you need to mow your lawn weekly) and the earlier in the season the better. Generally late spring to early summer is best. New lawns generally do not require top dressing, but can be done to fill in any gaps or holes. Occasionally after a settling period some areas of a new lawn may need a slight correction to desired levels. Fertilise a few weeks prior to top dressing to ensure maximum growth at the time. Use river sand or a top dressing soil mix. Using a higher proportion of organic material for sandy soils is a good idea. For established lawns, mow low with a rotary mower equipped with a catcher. Spread the mix evenly over the desired area, then rake, level lawn or broom it into the lawn profile. Never top dress more than 1cm in a single application, making sure the grass tips are still exposed.  Once the dressing is spread water-in well to promote new growth through the top dressing.

Autumn Lawn Care

Autumn Lawn Care

Some believe this time of year is the nicest. Your lawn will be breathing a sigh of relief from the hot and humid days; the nights becoming a little cooler getting ready for the winter chills.

Fertilising

It is an excellent time of year to give your lawn a good fertilise to prepare for the colder months ahead. Our weather conditions are becoming more extreme, so the stronger your lawn is the better chance it has of coming through the tough winter months and keeping winter weeds under control. Some growers believe this is the most important time of year to fertilise. If the runners and roots are strong before the winter weather, your lawn is ready to do combat with the elements. Autumn is a good time to test your soil’s pH levels if you have not done recently. Incorrect pH affects your lawn’s growth and the results you achieve from fertilising. The optimum level is 6.5, which is slightly acidic.

Mowing

Now that your lawn will start to slow down its' growth, you will not need to mow as much. You could raise your mowing height. Keeping a bit more length on the leaf blades is beneficial heading into winter. Your lawn should be more frost tolerant, as mostly the tips will brown off, leaving the undergrowth still green.